Geumsunsa Temple Stay: The Weekend I Decided to Become a Buddhist... until 2.30 on Sunday Afternoon When I had my First Wine.

Doing a Temple Stay has been on my 'Korea Bucket List' for a long while now, and I finally got around to ticking it off my list when I visited Seoul's Geumsunsa Temple last weekend. Although 4.30 am wake up calls, all vegetarian meals, and 108 bows of repentance for our many and various sins may not be everybody's cup of tea (literally, as there was a tea ceremony on Sunday morning), I loved it and would count it among my best and most interesting weekends in Korea.
On arrival at the temple we were greeted by our lovely English speaking guide Moon-yum, who showed us to our room and fitted us out with our very stylish Buddhist Monk style PJ's as modeled in the pictures above. I got lumbered with the men's ones on account of my lankiness, where as Lucy some got nice pink ones, worst luck.
After we settled in a bit we were given our initiation into the Buddhist world by being taught how to do the three bows: first bow for the Buddha, second bow for Buddha's teachings, and third bow for Buddha's legacy and all the teacher's who have passed down his teaching's throughout the generations.

 The cool thing about Buddhism is that there is no 'god' as such, but just a man who foundered the religion after observing and learning from the patterns and rules of nature. This is symbolized by the center Buddha statue, who is called 'Cosmic Buddha', in other words the Buddha of the Earth.




The Cosmic Buddha's hand gesture, the left hand wrapped around the right index finger, is supposed to symbolize how everything in the world is interconnected, although where I come from it symbolizes a very different type of connection...
Anyway, after easing us in gently with a guided tour and a vegetarian dinner, we started the climb of 108 steps up to the main temple to do our 108 bows of repentance. 108 is a special number in Buddhism as they believe this is how many feelings we have.  This number is reached by multiplying the senses (smell, touch, taste, hearing, sight, and consciousness) by whether they are painful, pleasant or neutral, and then again by whether these are internally generated or externally occurring, and yet again by past, present and future. 6 × 3 × 2 × 3 = 108. As we were walking up the steps Moon-yum explained to us we weren't doing the bows for the Buddha but for ourselves, to let go of all the bad feelings and thoughts we had and to empty our minds. I found the idea of a religion that focuses on looking after yourself and not focusing all your attention on some all-seeing, all-knowing idol pretty refreshing and interesting , that was until I heard the story of his birth...
So apparently 10 months after his mother dreamt that a white elephant with six tusks entered her right side, Siddhārtha Gautama (the first Buddha), was born through her right armpit -_-  Really? Her armpit? I think any other part of her anatomy would have been less ridiculous. But no, the founder of one of the most practiced religions in the world was born though an armpit. But as our guide reminded us, it is just a story after all, and no more ridiculous than Jesus feeding the 5000 with a few loaves and fish when you think about it. Not that that really helps...

After completing our bows, we joined the rest of the group for the evening chant and meditation. Two monks led the chant, which we were supposed to chant a-long to (I failed and just stood looking awkward and confused instead), but combined with the brilliantly decorated walls of the temple, the smell of burning incense and the dimly lit lanterns up above, the atmosphere was really quite surreal and beautiful. 

Standing before the start of the Evening Chant

Three types of meditation: walking meditation.

Sitting meditation.

Laying down meditation.

After the meditation we all headed off to our shared dorm room for a very early bedtime of 9.30pm. Our beds were made up of a mat, blanket and pillow on the floor but after all that bowing, chanting and meditation it wasn't difficult to fall asleep.

The next morning we woke up at 4.30am, which was surprisingly easy despite the lack of coffee in my system, and headed back to the main temple for the Morning Chant and a bit of yoga. One of the yoga activities was a 'move your body freely however you feel like moving it- just go as the music takes you- there's no wrong or right way' kind of thing. The monk leading the class was shaking her body all over the place and looked quite perplexed when, as I didn't feel like moving my body freely in front of a bunch of random Korean women,  I just shuffled awkwardly from one foot to the other, haha. 
After this embarrassing, but surprisingly enjoyable ordeal was over, it was time for the Ceremonial breakfast. As Buddhist's believe is saving resources, even our own energy, we were told to eat as 'cleanly' as possible so that the bowls were easy to clean. After swilling all of our dirty bowls with rice water to get rid of any food residue, we then had to drink the rice water with the bits of food in it. Some the Korean housewives found it quite disturbing, but it actually didn't really bother me at all. We then swilled the bowls out with clean water, which we were told were for the 'hungry ghost' whose throat is as thin as the eye of a needle (I'm afraid I think this story belongs along side the one about the arm-pit birth). So if anything even as small as a grain of rice is in the water, the monks have to drink all of it, to save the 'hungry ghost' from choking. 

We finished off a very enjoyable stay with a steady hike around the surrounding mountains, which was made even more lovely by the beautiful autumn scenery. Overall it was a great experience, which I would recommend to anybody providing they are willing to go there with an open mind, and step out of their comfort zone a bit. 

Kumusta Philippines: Part 2

One of the first things that struck me on arriving at the Philippines was just how overwhelmingly friendly everybody is.I wouldn't  say Korean people are unfriendly (although I have heard this said, including by Koreans themselves), but  I have said before they generally tend to be more reserved and shy about  certain things. One of these things being speaking to foreigners. So unless they know you, it's unlikely that they're gunna speak to/smile at you if you're passing in the street, or cross paths in the hallway. Even if you live in the same building, and see each other every single day but haven't been introduced to each other. A lesson I learned the first few times that I attempted to greet my elderly neighbours when crossing paths on the stairwell, and received a look of such stunned confusion that I can only assume I crossed some kind of weird Korean social boundary that I didn't know about. A feeling that  will probably be way too familiar to my fellow Korean expats. An exception to this rule is the few brave adjummas (the korean word for a stereotypical middle-aged, working class ladies who are stereotypically very loud and cankerous), who sometimes run over to me to tell me how pretty I am and how small my face is. A bizarre compliment, but one I have grown to appreciate none the less.

In stark contrast to this, the Filipino people will talk to pretty much anybody and everybody. Tricycle drivers, hostel owners, waiters, random people you meet in the street: everybody has some kind words to offer and by no stretch of the imagination could the Filipino people be generalised as being 'shy'.

 Never was this more apparent than on our last day in the Philippines, on which we visited Pristine Beach, Puerta Princessa.

 Posing for some snap shots in the sea, we suddenly became very conscious of 7 little pairs of eyes on us (the only foreigners on the beach)...

Quickly, we were surrounded by a group of the sweetest little Filipino kids, giggling and laughing, with a hundred questions for us on their lips. 

They were not impressed by my inability to jump at the same time as them, haha!

New little buddies!

The little boy in the yellow shirt to the left of the picture is Johneil :)

After a question and answer session that would rival the Spanish Inquisition (although  they may have been a tad more cute about it), one little boy called Johneil, asked me 'Do you like starfish?'. When I answered that I did, he sprinted off in the direction of the beach, and I just kept talking to the other kids thinking nothing of it. Ten minutes later he returns, grabs my hand and put a little dried starfish in it, then asks his brother to translate something.

'A remembrance of meeting us and the Philippines', his brother said. :'(

My prized starfish <3

As if this wasn't heart-breakingly sweet enough, their families then invited us over to share their celebratory feast. It was their baby son's Christening and in honour of the occasion they had roasted a whole roast pig (or Lechon), chicken feet Adobo (obviously, my favourite, me being partial to a bit of chicken foot and all :p), a never ending stream of wine and of course Filipino dark rum.

Sally, me and the rest of the family!

Full roast pig, or 'lechon' as the Filipino people call it.

 My friend Sally and I both agreed that our new friends had made us feel so welcome that we could have happily sat there and drank, talked and danced with them all day. But unfortunately we had a plane to catch :( So with a little too much wine in our bellies and sand still in our hair, we made the mad, last-minute dash for the airport.

Back to reality !

Kumusta Philippines: Part 1

So after 16 months in Korea, I finally got the opportunity to explore a bit of Asia! Hello the Philippines!

First stop: Manila

So for the past year and a half I've lived in the very prim and proper society of South Korea. Not that Korean people don't have sex. Between the Love Motels, Hostess bars, and 'Coffee' Girls (prostitutes who deliver coffee to your door, because who doesn't want a blowjob with their latte?)  it seems that everybody's doing it (or at least the men are). But they're kind of Victorian about it, in the sense that, everybody's doing it... *hushed voice* but nobodies talking about it. 

Oh My God! She said the 'S' word!!

After a year of censoring everything I say and do so as not to offend the tender ears/minds of my Korean friends and coworkers, it seems that I have become quite the prude. Just call me Snow White.
Walking the streets of Manila to a chorus of men wolf-whistling, meowing (wtf?!) and shouting 'sexy lady' at us, I am surprised to say that I was actually a little bit shocked. God knows why, I've had MUCH worse said to me working behind a bar in Maltby, but this kind of stuff does not happen in Korea. I think I might have even felt a little blush coming on!
Later  our naivety was confirmed when we noticed a massage parlor next to our hostel:
'Do you think it's an actual massage parlor or it's a 'special' massage parlor?'
Hmmmm, well... any doubts about this were swiftly eliminated when walking past the massage parlor again later that night. Huddled on the steps outside were a gang of prostitutes:

'Hey girls! You're so sexy and so pretty!' they shouted at us.

Not sure if they were trying to recruit us (exciting new job opportunity) or get our custom but either way I'll take that compliment. Who knew prostitutes were so nice and friendly :p

We spent the rest of our evening drinking dirt cheap cocktails at the lively bars of Manila Bay.
 And finished off with yet more cocktails and a little sheesha at one of the street bars outside our hostel. Not a bad first evening ;)



Next Stop: Puerto Princessa